
The floor drops away twenty metres out
No wade, no boat ride to the good part. You cross the rock shelf in front of the dive shops, put your face in the water, and the reef edge just ends. The sardines are there most days, all year, and have been for about fifteen years. Fees checked August 2026.
Explore the Philippines through the eyes of someone who has actually been there.
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One archipelago, three island groups
7,641 islands
Sinulog Festival, Cebu City · 9:12 PM
Sinulog is not a parade. It is a heartbeat.
One Sunday every January, two million people move to the same drum. We have shot it from the street and from the sky since 2022, and it still finds new ways to stop us cold.
Read the festival guideBite into Cebu
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A mezzanine is the floor between two floors. The name is the business plan.
One room on Salinas Drive that is a cafe at lunch and a bar at night,…
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The Steakhouse by Carne & Deli: the ₱1,498 ribeye that beats the ₱3,498 one
Six visits between 31 March and 9 August 2026, one at 11:43 in the morning and…
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The wall looks quarried. The menu is a wooden leaf. Then the trays land.
The wall at Hosaku looks like it was cut out of a cliff and carried in.…
Wear the story
The islands you just read about, worn worldwide
Dispatches from 7,641 islands
Field guides, drone routes, and the honest version of every destination. Written after the trip, not before.

